Ingredient guide

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is the one "retinol alternative" with a head-to-head clinical trial behind it. What that trial found, where the hype goes too far, and how IKI uses it.

The short answer

Bakuchiol is a plant compound from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia (babchi). It is not chemically related to retinol, but it activates similar genes in the skin. In a 12-week randomized, double-blind trial, 0.5% bakuchiol matched 0.5% retinol on wrinkle depth and hyperpigmentation, with significantly less scaling and stinging. It does not increase sun sensitivity and can be used morning and night. IKI uses it in Kido Brightening Serum together with a low level of retinol, so Kido itself is for night use.

What bakuchiol is

Bakuchiol is a meroterpene extracted from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine. It was first isolated in 1966 and entered skincare around 2007, when researchers noticed that it changes the expression of many of the same genes retinol does, despite a completely different structure.

What it does on the skin

  • Supports collagen and renewal. Like retinol, it upregulates collagen-related genes and improves fine lines and texture over weeks.
  • Evens tone. It reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation in the same trial that measured wrinkles.
  • Calms rather than irritates. It is anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, and it does not cause the peeling and stinging typical of retinoids.
  • No photosensitivity. It can be used in the morning under sunscreen.

What the evidence looks like

The key study is a 2018 trial in the British Journal of Dermatology: 44 people used either 0.5% bakuchiol twice a day or 0.5% retinol once a day for 12 weeks. Both groups improved similarly in wrinkle depth and pigmentation; the retinol group reported more scaling and stinging. Earlier work showed bakuchiol has antibacterial activity against acne bacteria and improves photoaged skin. It is one trial, sponsored by an ingredient supplier, so treat the "as good as retinol" claim as promising rather than settled. What is not in doubt is the tolerability.

Bakuchiol vs retinol: which one for sensitive skin?

If retinol has ever made your skin peel, burn or flush, bakuchiol is the better starting point. If your skin tolerates retinol well and your goal is deep wrinkles, retinol still has decades more evidence. Many formulas, including Kido, use both at low levels so that bakuchiol buffers the retinol.

How IKI uses it

Kido Brightening Serum combines bakuchiol with kojic acid dipalmitate, alpha arbutin, a low level of retinol and Centella asiatica. Because it contains retinol, Kido is a night serum and is not recommended during pregnancy. In its independent 30-day study on 45 people with sensitive skin, 89% said the serum felt gentle and 87% noticed a more luminous glow.

Questions about Bakuchiol

Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?

In the one head-to-head trial, 0.5% bakuchiol matched 0.5% retinol on wrinkles and pigmentation over 12 weeks with less irritation. Retinol has far more long-term evidence, so "comparable in the short term, better tolerated" is the honest summary.

Can I use bakuchiol in the morning?

Yes. Bakuchiol does not increase sun sensitivity. Kido, however, also contains retinol, so use Kido at night.

Can I use bakuchiol while pregnant?

There is no safety data in pregnancy. Most dermatologists consider it lower risk than retinoids but still recommend asking your doctor. Kido contains retinol and should be avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

What should I not mix with bakuchiol?

Nothing in particular; it is compatible with vitamin C, niacinamide and acids. Keep the overall routine simple if your skin is reactive.

Dr. M. Urbani, MD
Medically reviewed by
Dr. M. Urbani, MD
Founder of IKI Skincare · physician, formulated IKI for her own sensitive skin