Ingredient guide

Centella asiatica

Centella asiatica is the calming plant behind most "cica" and barrier products. Here is what its four active compounds actually do, what the studies show, and how IKI uses it.

The short answer

Centella asiatica is a small Asian herb whose extract calms visible redness, reduces inflammation and supports repair of a damaged skin barrier. Its actives (madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic and madecassic acid) have been studied for wound healing since the 1950s and are among the best-tolerated soothing ingredients for sensitive skin. IKI uses it in Iro Emulsion Gel Moisturizer and Kido Brightening Serum.

What Centella asiatica is

Centella asiatica is a low, creeping herb with round scalloped leaves that grows in wetlands across Asia. It has been used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for centuries, and in modern dermatology since the 1950s, when its extract was first studied for wound healing. In skincare it usually appears under its Korean nickname, "cica."

What it does on the skin

The extract contains four main actives: madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Together they do three useful things for sensitive skin:

  • Calm inflammation. Madecassoside reduces the signalling molecules that produce visible redness and heat. This is why cica products are the first thing many people reach for after over-exfoliating.
  • Support barrier repair. Asiaticoside stimulates collagen and fibronectin production in fibroblasts, which is the basis of its wound-healing reputation and its use in post-procedure creams.
  • Add antioxidant protection. The extract scavenges free radicals, which matters for skin exposed to sun and pollution.

What the evidence looks like

Centella has more research behind it than most botanicals. Reviews in dermatology journals document its effect on wound healing, scar quality and inflammatory skin conditions, mostly at concentrations of 0.5% to 5% of the extract. Consumer-facing studies on cica creams consistently report reduced redness and improved comfort within two to four weeks. What it does not do: it is not an exfoliant, not a brightener on its own, and it will not replace sunscreen.

Who it is for

Almost anyone, which is unusual. It is one of the few actives we recommend during barrier repair, in rosacea-prone skin, and alongside stronger ingredients to buffer them. Reported allergies are rare and usually involve people sensitive to the same plant family as carrots and celery.

How IKI uses it

Iro Emulsion Gel Moisturizer pairs Centella with colloidal oatmeal, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid; in its independent 30-day study on 49 people with sensitive skin, 90% said their skin felt calmed and soothed. Kido Brightening Serum uses it to keep a brightening formula (kojic acid, alpha arbutin, bakuchiol, retinol) comfortable on reactive skin; 89% of participants in its study said the serum felt gentle.

Questions about Centella asiatica

Is cica the same as Centella asiatica?

Yes. "Cica" is the short name used mostly in Korean and Japanese skincare for Centella asiatica extract or its isolated actives such as madecassoside.

Can I use Centella every day?

Yes, morning and night. It is non-exfoliating and non-photosensitizing, so it can be used under sunscreen and with other actives.

Does Centella help with acne redness?

It helps with the redness and irritation around blemishes and post-blemish marks, but it does not treat the cause of acne. Pair it with a gentle cleanser and, if needed, a targeted acne treatment.

Is Centella safe during pregnancy?

Topical Centella is generally considered low risk, but there are no controlled studies in pregnancy. Check with your doctor, as with any product.

Dr. M. Urbani, MD
Medically reviewed by
Dr. M. Urbani, MD
Founder of IKI Skincare · physician, formulated IKI for her own sensitive skin